Measuring the height of your shelves and reduce by about 2cm for easy sliding. Then ask your local DIY store to cut it in to strips of this size.
Measure the depth of your shelf and reduce it by twice the thickness of your plywood. Ie, 12mm plywood means 24mm to take off to allow for the front and back panel. Now cut your two sides.
Create a rebate piece as per notes above and blue tack it to the side panels while propped up. Then put your foolscap divide in place and measure how wide your front and back panels need to be.
Draw a line with a combination square, 5cm from the top edge. Then mark 18cm from each side along that pencil line. Then drill through the marks with a hole saw. To prevent chipping, flip over half way and drill from the other side.
Using a combination square again, draw a straight line at the top and bottom of these holes.
Cut out carefully with a jigsaw.
Then using a rebater router piece as shown in the blog post, trim a profile along the edge of a large off cut 18mm thick. Then trim it down to 3cm deep from the wider side. If yours doesn't have a bearing, you'll need to set up a fence like I did.
Hole the trim against the side panel and mark to the same width and cut with a jigsaw. Repeat to create two pieces.
Draw another line 5cm from the top edge of each side panel. Then glue the narrow side of the track and clamp it in line with that pencil line, ensuring the lip is facing upwards.
Clamp, reverse, then clamp to sawhorses or similar and nail gun from the good side.
Now use a 45 degree chamfer router bit to trim off the sharp lip.
Glue and clamp the entire box together while using a speed square to ensure square.
Then drill 1mm pilot holes before hammering together with ¾ inch panel pins or similar.
Bury the nails by hammering on top with a large chunky nails, then fill with wood filler and leave to dry before sanding everywhere.
Ensure dust free and protect with a coat or two of Danish oil, then you can use them.