Last week, we finished the NC500 campervan adventure in Scotland for our 3rd time. We've stayed at many wild camping NC500 spots along the way. So I'm going to show you our North Coast 500 Itinerary. I'll also include tips and tricks in finding the best places to camp.
For the last 10 years, we like to travel in a campervan most weekends and holidays. My husband, dog and I are always drawn to waking up near the beach and hearing the waves. In fact, we've completed the North Coast 500 trip while wild camping 3 times now. We love the idea of Route 66, Scotland.
Although the 1st time, we'd done it in 2014, we did it before Scotland had branded the North Coast 500 map in 2015. By the 2nd time, I thought I'd been ignorant of the North Coast 500 route and that it had always existed. Side note: it's very easy to soak up the NC500 route's beauty and forget everything else.
But, looking back on all of our photos and coast to coast memories over the years, it's also very interesting to see the changes and the impact the North Coast 500 has had on the local community, which I'll also talk about. Some for better and some for worse.
Wild Camping Spots on the North Coast 500
Before I talk you through our North Coast 500 route map locations, one thing I need to mention is that wild camping spots come and go all the time. It's very sad to revisit our favourite spots, sometimes being met with boulders, blocking their entrance. Or even No Overnight Campers and motorhome signs and height barriers.
Some may agree with Bettyhill store owner that the NC500 map has been too successful. The concept promised locals more customers, but has encouraged congestion, roofing tacks strewn on roads and vandalism. *I discovered this article after we decided to stay at an "always dead" campsite nearby.
You may find comfort in downloading the North Coast 500 route planner. It helped up check we were still on track with no signal. But I also recommend the Park4Night free app, which shows a variety of parking places, including reviews. For example, I later discovered there's a pub in Ullapool who have 5 motorhome places with electric hook up.
When To Do North Coast 500?
Due to the success of the NC500 route map mentioned above, we personally would avoid driving it in the height of Summer. With more people off work and kids not at school, there's more competition finding the best spots.
Also, the warmer the weather, the more likely you'll be sharing your living space with midges, as we did in Loch Ness, August 2014.
We prefer after September and try to avoid very cold winters. I.e, this video of us driving through Applecross in the snow was a pretty scary experience on New Year's Day, 2017. But a good set of Winter tyres is also helpful.
How Long Does North Coast 500 Take?
How long the North coast route 500 takes really depends on these factors:
- The weather conditions
- Animals crossing, such as highland cows and sheep
- You'll face many single track roads
- Expect to wait at a passing place
- There are lots of attractions to stop and see, such as waiting for your turn for a John O'Groats Signpost selfie
If it helps, it took us around 5 days to do the Nc500 Scotland, so you'll need to set aside much more time than a day trip.
How to Plan North Coast 500
There's always an element of risk when driving to Scotland's NC500 in the hope you'll find suitable places to sleep. However, I'll let you into a little secret. We don't plan our NC500 route that much as we're very fussy and go on instincts.
You can check on Google Street View, but, take here near John O'Groats, for example. This car park says no overnight, then one year, it was painted over with lots sleeping there. But, by 2020, bails of hay covering the entrance and the sign was gone. This may be a sign of vandalism.
And while there's two of us, I like to scan through the Park4Night app while my husband drives. We'd also seen for the first time in the Highlands this year, three vans clearly living in passing places, with a generator, etc in place. We think wild camping should be done respectfully, discretely and don't stay in the same spot for more than one or two nights.
Is the North Coast 500 Dog Friendly?
Absolutely! Being such a dog friendly road trip is one of the main reasons we love the North Coast 500 route. We can all enjoy the walking and beautiful Scottish scenery and beaches. But, as many dog owners will know, some of the more commerical beaches (and there's not many), will state no dogs during certain times of the year.
As for attractions, is Dunrobin Castle dog friendly, for example? Sadly not and nor is the grounds. So to avoid any disappointment, if you're wanting to drive off the NC 500 route, it may be best to ring up and check first.
Another note is that, during beautiful weather, our dog got a fair few ticks on his first North Coast 500 road trip. So make sure you treat him or her before you go. This handy credit card tick remover has helped in the past, but whipping them off with a needle threader is my favourite method.
Is the North Coast 500 Suitable For Caravans?
We have seen the odd caravanner drive along the North Coast 500 in Scotland, but we personally wouldn't. It felt tight enough for motorhomes at the most, as you can see us stuck above for 20 minutes. That is, unless you have a small car along with a small caravan, such as a teardrop.
The roads in the West of the Highlands, such as Applecross become very windy, steep and in a single track form with passing places.
Also, we found some bridges, such as the Kyle of Tongue Bridge, between Tongue House and Achuvoldrach, with signs saying not suitable.
Where Does the North Coast 500 Start and Finish?
This Scottish 500 mile round trip starts and ends at Inverness Castle. We tend to aim to Ardersier Bay to recharge, then aim towards Inverness the next morning.
Whether you go clockwise or anti-clockwise if your choice. We were going to go clockwise this year for the first time. But after checking weather reports, we decided to aim for John O'Groats first while the weather was nice.
This meant, driving through the Black Isle first, near Cromarty and along the North East coast of Scotland.
Is the North Coast 500 Signposted?
Yes, you'll see many signposts for it along the way. However, it's not always easy to spot them. And, it can get a little confusing with other coastal route signposts available.
How Much Does the North Coast Cost?
This year, (2020), our cost to do the NC 500 Scotland was £200 for fuel to complete.
This does not take into account food we would have bought anyway, or the one £12 campsite we paid.
Our North Coast 500 Wild Camping Spots
As part of our North Coast 500 Itinerary, I'm going to list the wild camping spots we went to this year.
And, an alternative for the one campsite we used for an electric hook up and enjoy a glass of wine, legally.
Loch Brora or River Brora, Sutherland
Now, while we didn't wild camp here this time, I thought I'd mention this absolutely gorgeous spot for Loch Brora wild camping. It's also a great place for a picnic, to which I have many fond memories of this.
And while you'll find no phone signal, it's extremely beautiful and peaceful for a good rest. Or, you could acquire a Loch Brora fishing permit from Cunningham's newsagents, which is also the local Tourist Information point.
It was also around this area we adventured on Loch Brora walks we rescued a poor little bird, who'd trapped his now broken leg on some boundary barbwire. And walked to the beach, which is near a golf club.
Note: I was thoroughly disappointed to learn, back in 2014, that there wasn't (and still isn't) a Brora cashmere clothing shop. I used to work a stone throw away from their Harrogate shop and feel Victoria Stapleton might be missing a trick with visitors.
Castle Sinclair Girnigoe Car Park in Caithness
Starting from Inverness, while driving up the A9 and past Wick, I found a very cool spot at a car park near Castle Sinclair and Noss Head lighthouse. I remember driving there, wondering if we were actually going anywhere, but it was a gem once we'd arrived.
It's a free L-shaped car park with 10 spaces, big enough for motorhomes. And with some lovely weather, we cooked and plated tea to eat at the sectioned off picnic area.
As it's a dead end, there's no traffic noises to disturb. But something to note is, be friendly with your camper neighbours. Particularly as we bumped into three of these campers later on our route 500 Scotland trip. And many of the same Arnold Clark cars(!)
While there, Castle Sinclair, itself, is also a must to walk to. Opposite the car park, you'll find a kissing gate leading to a public footpath. The castle, named after the Sinclair family. It's not certain when it was built, but it was occupied in the mid 14th century and has seen repairs in the 1600s.
And more recently, the Clan Sinclair Trust charity have been working on repairs in a way, we can still walk around and view what is left, along with our furry friends.
We then headed to John O'Groats to stop at the signpost before looking for our next North Scotland wild camping spot.
Duncansby Head Lighthouse
Again, this is another place we've camped before, but only in Winter and it's often extremely windy. It usually has No Overnight camping signs, but instead, they had been taken down with only signs of stickers left behind.
A word of warning: I'm not sure if tourists keep vandalising the signs, as there were bails of hay strategically placed in an attempt to block some people. However, I would use this place as a last resort for sleeping, with it being so popular.
It is, although, a beautiful place to walk and the sand is memorably, rather coarse, from what I feel is ground seashells. My theory is, the shells are particularly thicker due to the colder temperature up there. Also, coves can be seen, full of birds, hiding under shelter along the fenced-off cliff edges.
Must Do North Coast 500 Spot
While in the North Highlands, we recommend visiting Dunnet Head, which is actually the most Northerly point of Britain. Dunnet Bay is often overlooked, in favour of John O'Groats.
Also Note: in between this and the next spot, we'd read that Strathy Point Lighthouse near Thurso was great for camping. Unfortunately, this is not dog friendly and really, only suitable for tents as parking was limited.
Additionally, other bays we also tried to access, as featured on the official North Coast 500 app, now had "no through road" signs. Many looking unofficial, so don't expect to be welcomed with open arms by everyone.
Craigdhu Caravan Camping Site, Bettyhill
This year, we decided to pay £12 for an electric hook up on Craigdhu campsite, Bettyhill because it was close to the beautiful Farr beach.
If you require water, toilets or an elsan point, then currently, this site isn't for you. It has so much potential, now being run alone by Mrs Annie Mackenzie since the death of her husband, who lives opposite the petrol pumps.
If you are passing by and require a space, I recommend reading this article first before dismissing Google reviews. Yes, there is a neglected toilet block no longer in use, but it's peaceful and there is a small trek to Farr beach. Also, you can do some coast to coast walking in this area, including a walk to a cliff past the police station to view the inaccessible (from this side), Torrisdale Bay.
Note: previously, we have driven further towards the West Coast direction at Ceannabeinne Beach, Durness, and slept in a layby in December. This again, offers more coast to coast walks.
Must See North Coast 500
While you travel along the North West coast of Scotland, look out for the unique Kylesku Bridge. Open in July 1984, it is 79ft above the water to still allow ships through.
It replaces a former ferry between Kylesku ad Kylestrome.
Victoria Falls, Loch Maree, Achnasheen
Shortly after passing the Durness area and reaching the Wester Ross Coastal Trail, we tried to visit Smoo Cave. We found it was way too busy in late September, meaning we had to drive on.
By around 5pm, we were in the Slattadale Forest area near Loch Maree. We initially checked the Loch Maree picnic site, but this isn't allowed, despite someone ignoring signs. Yet there's enough hidden car parks off the A832, heading in Applecross' direction. One being at the stunning Victoria Falls.
It offers a cool viewing platform to Loch Maree and you're able to get close to the Victoria Falls, up a short, slight incline and even stand on a large stone platform in between. Expect the odd vehicle parking up for photos, but at night, it was peaceful and we had another motorhome for company.
Wild Camping Between Lonbain and Applecross
This is another one of my favourite wild camping places which we never slept over this year, due to timings. Again, it is an extremely peaceful grassed layby, where you can hear a trickling waterfall nearby.
This North Coast 500 camping spot now has a slightly worn path to the water, which wasn't there in 2014. And, one thing that appeared disappointing, is that there are now signs (and evidently, tissues amongst the ferns), asking people not to leave litter or human waste.
A wooden picnic bench is no longer there (which we spotted in 2018, it was partially burnt. I do wish people wild camped respectfully, leaving no trace behind, so everyone else can enjoy it, too.
Note: there is a larger spot about 50 metres before this if you're doing the North 500 as a pair of motorhomes as it was used in 2014. There is also now a car park with access to the beach just before this too.
Where to Eat on the North Coast 500?
One of our favourite things to do while visiting new places in Scotland by camper is support local businesses. You'll find a few Spars and other local shops along the way for local milk, bread, eggs, etc.
And we also like to use Tripadvisor, as we did for local recommendations when visiting Applecross' Waterside cafe. Their homemade Scottish beef burger was a delicious tower with cheese and bacon. They also brought out a bowl of water for our dog.
Finishing the 500 Miles of North Scotland
To officially finish Scotland 500 route, (516 miles, to be exact), normally, we'd aim back to Inverness where we started. But as you can create your own schedule, this time, we ventured to Isle of Skye. *Note, no, it isn't on the North Coast 500.
If you're here to plan your route 500 Scotland journey and require further info, why not buy a North Coast 500 book to help you?
You can also find this useful North coast 500 route map pdf here. I also highly recommend their app, which you can download all locations to use offline. And believe me, you'll come across lots of poor signal areas, although it's improved a lot over the years.
North Coast 500 Campervan Hire
If you're looking to do the Scottish NC500 journey in a camper or motorhome, there are many hire companies available.
One we were behind was called Campsie Campers and we saw so many Bunk Campers hired. *Be very careful of the insurance side of the latter, as you'll see on Bunk Campers reviews online.
If a Scotland North Coast 500 motorhome adventure isn't for you, then you may want to look at Booking .com. We found plenty of North Coast 500 accommodation with map locations available, including dog friendly ones.
However, due to Covid 19 and households technically not allowed to mix, we decided to leave this aspect well alone. You may even prefer to do a North Coast 500 cycling, but I wouldn't want to cycle this in the rain.
You can also watch more of our campervan road trips here in the United Kingdom in a Mazda Bongo. And then, our Mercedes Vito self converted campervan vlogs, here, but venturing to France and Spain, too. We LOVE a good Coast to Coast walk!
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