Here's how I made a discrete and modern DIY filing cabinet box from plywood to hide on a bookcase for a minimalist look. Includes step by step instructions and a how-to YouTube video guide.

When I became self employed a few years ago, my husband was nervous about whether I'd be organised with bookkeeping. So to help, he bought me a Really Useful Box with foolscaps suspension files. I'd not seen anything like it and it made life so easy.
But storing it somewhere tidily was a pain in the bum. I've hidden it in many places when we had guests. And while I've been getting in to furniture making, I really wanted to design and build a filing cabinet.
However, we bought this IKEA Hemnes bookcase in their bargain corner one weekend. It was more to fill a blank corner to create some vignettes. So while trying to think what we could store on them, my husband placed the Really Useful box on the deeper bottom shelf.

It fit, but stuck out way too much. Then I realised, all I needed to do was design some boxes, shallow enough. So after taking a few measurements, I asked my local DIY store to cut a sheet of 12mm ply.
That meant all I had to do was make a few cross cuts with my circular saw. But because the bottom shelves are taller, I needed to make shorter boxes for the ones further up.
I love how these match my box file design and the hole saw handles offer a unique twist. These have been great for our ever growing cables and camera or computer accessories.

THINGS YOU'LL NEED
- Sheet of 12mm plywood
- Combination square
- Rebater router bit from this box
- 45 degree router bit from this box
- Hole saw (30mm)
- Starrett A4 Arbor for 30mm hole saw
- Circular saw *gifted
- Jigsaw
- Glue *gifted
- Orbit sander
- Steel panel pins
- Bosch combi drill
- 1mm drill bit
- Speed square
- Foolscap suspension files
- Irwin clamps
- Router
- Hammer
- Nail gun
- 25mm nails
- Ear defenders
- Wood filler
- Danish oil

HOW TO MAKE A WOODEN BOX FILE
After measuring the height of my shelves, I reduced it by about 2cm. Then asked my local DIY store to cut it in to strips of this size.
If you're designing for the IKEA Hemnes shelves too, you may have noticed the bottom shelves are taller.
So because you can't add measurements on, but only reduce. I had the strips cut for these because I knew could reduce after for the smaller boxes.

Then measure the depth of your shelf and reduce it by twice the thickness of your plywood.
With me using 12mm plywood, I had to take off 24mm to allow for adding the front and back.
Then first cut my two sides.

To create a rebate track for your suspension box file, you'll need to cut your trim now as seen further below. *It's the small blue router bit.
But initially, I tested it on an off cut and cut two pieces off as above.

To work out the measurements of the front and back section, I propped up my two sides I cut earlier. They're leaning against these boxes I had at hand.
Then blue tacked the rebated off cuts to the side panels and hooked my foolscap folder.
Now I can measure the width both outer edge to outer edge.

And after cutting two panels to this measurement, here's my checking to see if it still works. Yep! Good to go!

For the handles, I drew a line with a combination square, 5cm from the top edge.
Then marked 18cm from each side along that pencil line.
These would then be where I drill through with a hole saw. But to prevent chipping, I flipped over half way and drill from the other side.

Now draw a straight line along the top and bottom of these holes.
Although if I make any more, I'll use a combination square again instead for more accuracy.

Now cut along these pencil lines carefully with a jigsaw.
Don't rush this as you want them to be accurate.

So here's the rebater router piece from one of my favourite router bit set.
Place it in your router, protruding enough to allow for the foolscap lid. Then set up a fence to trim a straight line.
You don't have to worry too much about the fence's position. As long as it's set back enough to create a large enough lip. However really far away will wear your router bit out quicker.

You'll notice I did this on a large off cut, but long enough to give me two cuts, one for each panel.
I don't have a router table, so felt safer with this method.

Then I trimmed that rebate profile edge off to 3cm wide on the deeper side.

Next, I held my rebate rail against my box file side panels and marked and cut to the same length.
Then clamped to my saw horses and cut with a jigsaw.

And after marking a line 5cm from the top of my panels with a combi square, I added glue on the narrower sides of the rebate trim.
Then placed it in line with my pencil line with the lip facing upwards.

Clamp then down.

Flip over and clamp to my saw horses, then using a nail gun, I fixed from behind with 25mm nails.

And to allow my foolscap files to run smoothly on the track, I chamfered the lip with a 45 degree router bit.

There. Much better!

Now, lay all your pieces out and have your clamps ready.
And glue all the sides that will be joining together.

Clamp together, ensuring square with a speed square.
Also, measure the top from corner to corner, diagonally to ensure each measurement is the same.
If not, you'll need to push the side until they are the same. You're teasing it to form an accurate square.

Now predrill holes along the sides with a 1mm drill bit.

And hammer in your panel pins.

To make the base, now measure the internal measurements from the base end.

Now cut your square to those measurements. I cut my piece down with a circular saw, then moved on to my jigsaw for safety.

Glue the base's sides and insert. Then continue to predrill and hammer all the way around.

Next, bury the nails by hammering further with a large chunky nail.

Mix together some wood filler with catalyst and fill over the nails. And leave for 30 minutes until dry.

Now sand absolutely everywhere until smooth, including the edges.

Gently hand sand the handles to smooth,

And finally, ensure your boxes are dust free and treat with Danish oil. I applied with a lint free cloth and left for 20 minutes until wiping off the excess.

OTHER PROJECTS YOU MIGHT LIKE...


Make a Wooden Suspension Box File & Storage Boxes
Equipment
- Combination square
- Rebater router bit from this box
- 45 degree router bit from this box
- Hole saw (30mm)
- Starrett A4 Arbor for 30mm hole saw
- Erbauer Circular saw *gifted
- Erbauer jigsaw *gifted
- Bosch combi drill
- 1mm drill bit
- Orbit sander
- Speed square
- Irwin clamps
- Erbauer palm router (gifted)
- Hammer
- Nail gun
- Ear defenders
Ingredients
- 1 sheet 12mm plywood softwood for detail to show through
- Wood glue *gifted
- Steel panel pins
- Foolscap suspension files
- 25mm nails for nail gu
- Wood filler
- Danish oil
Instructions
- Measuring the height of your shelves and reduce by about 2cm for easy sliding. Then ask your local DIY store to cut it in to strips of this size.
- Measure the depth of your shelf and reduce it by twice the thickness of your plywood. Ie, 12mm plywood means 24mm to take off to allow for the front and back panel. Now cut your two sides.
- Create a rebate piece as per notes above and blue tack it to the side panels while propped up. Then put your foolscap divide in place and measure how wide your front and back panels need to be.
- Draw a line with a combination square, 5cm from the top edge. Then mark 18cm from each side along that pencil line. Then drill through the marks with a hole saw. To prevent chipping, flip over half way and drill from the other side.
- Using a combination square again, draw a straight line at the top and bottom of these holes.
- Cut out carefully with a jigsaw.
- Then using a rebater router piece as shown in the blog post, trim a profile along the edge of a large off cut 18mm thick. Then trim it down to 3cm deep from the wider side. If yours doesn't have a bearing, you'll need to set up a fence like I did.
- Hole the trim against the side panel and mark to the same width and cut with a jigsaw. Repeat to create two pieces.
- Draw another line 5cm from the top edge of each side panel. Then glue the narrow side of the track and clamp it in line with that pencil line, ensuring the lip is facing upwards.
- Clamp, reverse, then clamp to sawhorses or similar and nail gun from the good side.
- Now use a 45 degree chamfer router bit to trim off the sharp lip.
- Glue and clamp the entire box together while using a speed square to ensure square.
- Then drill 1mm pilot holes before hammering together with ¾ inch panel pins or similar.
- Bury the nails by hammering on top with a large chunky nails, then fill with wood filler and leave to dry before sanding everywhere.
- Ensure dust free and protect with a coat or two of Danish oil, then you can use them.
Video
PIN THIS SUSPENSION BOX FILE FOR LATER...



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