How to Lay Parquet Flooring {Ultimate Guide + Video}

Laying Parquet flooring can instantly transform your home for a luxurious herringbone style. So I've put together this how to lay parquet flooring guide, full of tips and tricks and in-depth video to help you.

PR Gift - Thisengineered parquet flooring parquet flooring was kindly gifted by Atkinson and Kirby, who offer a variety of styles and patterns to choose from.

When I told my YouTube viewers I planned on laying a parquet floor in our home, many people told me I was "brave", and "you've taken a lot on there".

Scratch that! I was laying parquet on concrete in 2 different rooms combined. A living room and dining room with large archway to form an L-shaped home.

But having previously installed laminate flooring, fitted scotia beading, then laminate to carpet trim before replacing skirting boards, I knew parquet laying could be done by the home DIYer.

📖 The History of Parquet Laying

Back in the 16th century, French artisans were tired of cold stone floors, and decided to get creative with wood. They called it laying parquetry, which is blocks of wood pieces (AKA parquet tiles).

Parquet patterns were inlaid in various amazing geometric patterns, such as the parquet de Versailles, chevron parquet, basket weave parquet and more.

But in recent years, things have developed since solid wood parquet floors. Now it can be bought in laminate parquet, plastic LVT, porcelain, bamboo or engineered wood as I feature here.

🪵Which Parquet Material Is Best?

When installing new floors, you need to decide which is best for your needs. Here's some pros and cons:

Solid wood parquet

✅Pros - classic, timeless look and can be sanded multiple times and glued down
❌Cons - not waterproof, requires a dpm under concrete flooring, is expensive and not stable with underfloor heating as it reacts to humidity, causing warping and gaps

Engineered Wood Parquet

✅Pros - looks classic with real wood on top and more stable with heat, making it great paired with underfloor heating, can be laid on underlay
❌Cons - it's expensive, not waterproof, requires dpm under concrete and can only use a floor sander a handful of times due to 4mm top veneer layer

Laminate

✅Pros - one of the easiest DIY option for floating floors, can be scratch-resistant and one of the cheapest options
❌Cons - doesn't look real close up, cannot be glued down, not waterproof and can absorb moisture easily. I recommended only cleaning with this gentle Vileda spray mop

LVT (Luxury Vinyl Tile)

✅Pros - it's waterproof, doesn't require a DPM (damp proof membrane) so ideal for high moisture areas and DIY beginner friendly to install
❌Cons - can show dips if your isn't perfectly level and YouTuber Belinda Carr says the click lock joins can fail and buckle

Porcelain Tiles

✅Pros - it's waterproof, hardwearing, super easy to clean, doesn't require DPM but would be beneficial over concrete or tile backer to prevent damp weakening cement based tile adhesive
❌Cons - your full tiles won't look real. Hard and cold underfoot, takes time to install perfectly and can crack if not installed correctly. Dropping cups, phones, etc can break instantly

Bamboo Parquet Floor

✅Pros - more sustainable than hard wood, harder finish than some woods and can be sanded/used with underfloor heating, requires dpm
❌Cons - can scratch, limited styles and can be sensitive to moisture

Should I Glue or Opt for a Floating Floor?

Although I am laying parquet flooring on concrete, you could instead opt for a floating floor by gluing the tongues only. But which is best for you? Let's explore them.

Full Glue Down Installation

✅ Firmer underfoot, more stable with less expansion and contraction with flexible wooden floor adhesive, best with heavy furniture
❌ Requires a DPM under concrete floor, more time-consuming and very hard to remove later

Floating Installation

✅Quicker to install, easier to remove, best for click parquet with A and B boards, and needs underlay with vapour barrier which will add warmth
❌Not ideal for parquet if you have universal boards that don't have click tongue. Can be bouncy if the subfloor is not perfectly level

Which direction should my parquet run?

I chose my parquet to be in the same direction as the archway in our open plan living space to create a natural flow and continuirty from the living room to the dining room.

However, other ways to consider are:

• run along the longest wall in the room or long hallway
• aesthetically lead towards a focal point, like a fireplace and hearth
• in the same direction as the longest wall
• run parallel to the light (perpendicular to a window)

✔️ Why You'll Love This Project

Here's a handful of reasons why DIY parquet flooring is worth doing!

• Creates a luxurious wow factor
• Adds beauty and value to your home
• Gives you a huge sense of pride and achievement
• Easy to pick colours to suit your home
• Has a cosy, natural feel
• Is durable and should last for years
• It's a great skill to learn for the future

How to Calculate Flooring Packs Needed

1. Measure Room Size - Use a tape measure to find the width and length of your room in metres
2. Calculate Area - Multiply width by length to get the total m²
3. Add 10% Wastage - Multiply by 1.1 to account for cutting and natural variations
4. Determine Pack Quantity - Divide the adjusted m² by the pack size (found in product specs) and round up to the nearest whole number

Example:

• Room size: 3.5m × 6m = 21m²
• With wastage: 21 × 1.1 = 23.1m²
• Pack size: 2.2m²
• Packs needed: 23.1 ÷ 2.2 ≈ 11 packs

⚒️Tools and Material Notes

Please note that as an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases made through affiliate links.

• Atkinson and Kirby Engineered oak parquet flooring (PR Gift) - this is hardwood plywood with 4mm Nanzen oak veneer top
• Proflex Ultra MS polymer flexible wood flooring adhesive (PR Gift) - absorbs movements and natural expansions/contraction of the wood and moisture resistant, with 30 minute working time
• Bona 6mm flexible trowel - this is 6mm deep x 3mm wide, or check with your manufacturer's instructions. Alternatively, you could try a V notched trowel but it wasn't my favourite
• Drywall T-square - good for checking whether rooms/walls are square
• SBR and a Harris paint roller - to seal porous floors before gluing floor down. Or try PVA solution.
• PPE - Safety goggles for cutting planks with power tools, dust mask to prevent breathing in glue toxins/headaches
• Rubber mallet - or wooden tapping block
• Pulling ledge - this is vital while fitting planks closer to the wall and obstacles like a hearth
• Werner portable workbench platform
• Assorted packers - essential for a consistent clearance around the flooring where it meets the walls (my instructions stated 15mm clearance)
• Compact saw - this is a mini circular saw that I used this when cutting my initial parquet triangle while masking taped together, or you can use a hand saw or jigsaw, but they are much slower
• Draper Band Saw - if you don't have one, then reconsider! Especially with the money you'll save doing this yourself. It's great for the smaller, awkward cuts where it's not as safe with a mitre saw and can't clamp to use a jigsaw
• Right angle rafter square and mitre saw - or a hand saw with mitre box for the many 45 degree cuts needed near walls
• Chalkline and laser Level - both are useful to create your centre line or a straight line to follow. Note, you will cover the chalkline with glue, so a laser is great for insurance!
• Xpert deglazing knife scraper - this is chamfered, great for gently separating boards and scraping glue off the floor
• Tape measure and metal ruler - I found the latter better for measuring up to walls to work our clearances easier

📋 Step by Step Instructions

For a very in-depth guide, I recommend also watching my how to lay herringbone flooring video.

You can refer to my shorter printable guide in the how-to card at the bottom of this post. However, I recommend reading the entire post as I have more detailed tips, tricks, and step-by-step images.

1. Get your subfloor level and dry

First, check your concrete floor is perfectly level by checking with a 2m long straight edge.

If you can slot a £1 coin (3mm) under it, you'll need to use self levelling compound or spot fill to avoid unwanted wavy or bouncy flooring.

For wooden floors: if you have any creaks, you'll need to fix them now.

You'll also need to check your ground floor moisture content and ensure it is below 0.5% and the humidity of the room is 45-60%.

Then seal your porous concrete floor with SBR and leave to dry.

Tip: use a dehumidifier if needed

2. Acclimatise your flooring

Don't dive into your parquet laying just yet!

You need to give it time to acclimatise. To do this, check your instructions.

Atkinson & Kirby installation guide recommend leaving all boards in their packaging in the room they will be laid for at least 48 hours.

This is also at the optimal humidity range of 45-60% and maintain a temperature of 18-20°c.

The room should not be damp, and never be stored outside.

3. Choose your laying method

If you have a concrete floor with damp proof membrane underneath preventing rising damp, you can use a flexible parquet floor glue.

How to lay parquet on underlay:

Or float your floor by using underlay like XPS foam and glue the tongues for both concrete or wooden subfloor.

For concrete floors with no damp proof membrane, then you will need to lay one, the underlay, or use an underlayment with built in moisture barrier.

If you have click lock parquet, you can float your floor without glueing the tongues if preferred.

Skirting boards:

Decide whether you want to remove your skirting boards so they can hide your expansion gap when adding back later, OR add matching scotia bead later.

You may also want to install a parquet border around the perimeter of the room, or just skirting.

4. Plan Your Layout Lines

Firstly, you'll need to decide which orientation you want your parquet to run. See section: Which direction should my parquet?

Once you've decided, you can lay centre of the room or centre of a feature like a hearth.

For centre, measure the width of your room at the top and bottom and divide it by 2 and draw a straight line - note, we'll do a true chalk line for true centre of the parquet next!

Check your room for square with a builder's square from several points - especially if leading into a next room.

Also note: laying parquet in multiple rooms can be challenging as each room has different temperatures and will expand and contract at different rates. That's why it is recommended to install thresholds between doorways.

5. Lay Your First Row

To get started, watch how I create a parquet triangle first by joining them together, temporarily tape with masking tape and draw a straight line.

Then cut along the pencil lines with a circular saw. jigsaw, hand saw or a mitre saw.

Now rebuild the triangle and watch here to find true centre of your parquet. Then mark the floor with this measurement for your offset and create a chalkline.

Next, position your triangle with the chalkline and temporarily add your next board and now, you can create 2 new outer chalklines to know where you can glue up to.

Next, spread glue on the floor with a trowel and place your required spacers or packers against the wall and lay your triangle of flooring together up to them

Tips: while forming your triangle, ensure the tongues face you to keep them structural.

6. Add Your Next Planks

Now carefully take your time to glue and add your next board and repeat.

Tips:

• I recommend also setting up a laser level as you no doubt will cover your chalkline with glue.
  
• From time to time, you may need to use a tapping block or mallet, but don't be too hard as each tap can move the neighbouring plank.
  
• Also, avoid tapping on the corner or the plank as these are the most fragile points, which can be disastrous if the glue has almost set.
  
• Keep going back to check if anything has moved and don't let people walk on it too early
  
• Let your initial row set where possible overnight as it will prevent movement while adding your next row
  
• Add weights or boxes of flooring on top to press the flooring down for good contact where you think it's needed, but not too close to to the edge as it can prove difficult to install the next plank once dried
  
• Patience is key!

7. Add your next row

I recommend only working in single rows after this so you can keep a close eye on your joins.

Warning! This may sound silly, but if laying thousands of universal boards (they have no tongues on the shorter ends), it can be easy to fit a groove to groove together, which will ruin its integrity, so get into the habit of checking constantly.

And repeat until you come to opposite walls, obstacles, architrave and door frames.

Cutting around radiator pipes also requires the same amount of clearance. Then cover with matching pipe collars.

8. Cutting around walls and obstacles

For cutting mitres around walls, I recommend doing practice cuts with cardboard templates first.

Or taking the longest measurement, mark on your board and line up with a right angle on a 45 degree and draw along it before cutting.

If your rooms are not square, you will need a sliding bevel and watch this great quick video to mark flooring around obstacles.

Architrave: you will need to plan your parquet under architrave in advance by undercutting with a multi tool resting on a plank. Then glue these down first, before the penultimate one goes down, then quickly shuffle together with a pull bar/ledge before the glue goes off.

Tip: Take your time and don't mallet too hard as each tap can have a "knock on effect". If you rush things when glueing, it is more difficult to rectify, but the result will be worth it!

⚖️ Project Variations

Here are some different ways you can install parquet:

• Add a border or inlay - for the ultimate wow factor, adding a parquet is the traditional way, but takes more skill
• Choose a different finish - you can add a stain or finish, or simply choose a different wood such as bamboo, oak, walnut, maple, ash, cherry, mahogany, etc
• Pick a different layout - you can opt for chevron, herringbone, basketweave, Versailles or geometric patterns
• Choose a UV oiled parquet - if preferring a natural, matte finish
• Choose lacquered finish - for more scratch resistant

You may also prefer to install plank flooring instead.

🦺 Safety Tips

• Wear a mask when using toxic glue to prevent breathing in VOC or to avoid headaches from experience
• If using power tools, always wear goggles and ear defenders
• Avoid wearing gloves while using power tools incase they get caught
• Don't cut with a mitresaw for small cuts - use a handsaw or band saw instead
• Wear disposable gloves while applying glue to prevent painful cracked fingers

❓ FAQ

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