Have you got a tapered drywall installation and want to learn DIY taping and jointing for the first time? Then here's my step-by-step guide, including fixing bubbles in drywall tape.
You can also follow my tape and jointing YouTube video here.
When we bought our new farmhouse last year, we knew we'd have to install plasterboard on the ceiling before we even started decorating as the property had flood damage due to burst pipes.
But being on a tight budget, we decided to install tapered plasterboards so we could fill them ourselves with joint compound as opposed to hiring plaster for the whole ceiling.
So in this post, I'm going to show you how to get a smooth finish with the following:
- Scrim tape for tapered joins
- Paper tape for butt joins
- Corner tapes and corner beads
- Fix air bubbles
- Prepare for painting
The same method also applies to a DIY stud wall and partition wall.
Jump to:
✔️ Why You'll Love This Project
Here are a handful of reasons why we think you'll enjoy mudding your drywall panels to achieve a DIY finished wall or ceiling:
- You don't need to spread drywall mud on the whole wall
- More forgiving for ceilings as room lights usually face downwards
- Cheaper than hiring a professional (although takes longer!)
- Will give you a great sense of achievement
- Your skill will improve every time you tape and joint
- You'll create stronger joints
- Improve the thermal insulation
🟥Tapered Edge and Square Edges
First, let's talk about the differences between a tapered edge and a square edge as both require different tapes for dry lining.
Tapered board edges: the longest end of the plasterboard sheets are thinner and when joined with another, they create a dip to allow you to build up jointing compound until smooth. These require mesh tape.
Square edges: these require a first coat of mud, followed by paper tape and a tape coat for a seamless integration before sanding.
Both can be directly painted or wallpapered, with no additional plaster required.
⚒️Tools and Material Notes
You can refer to my shorter printable guide in the how-to card at the bottom of this post. However, I recommend reading the entire post as I have more detailed tips, tricks, and step-by-step images.
Please note that as an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases made through affiliate links.
Jointing compound - I mixed up Easifill60, and also tried Toupret ready mix joint and skim, thinned out with water for the paper tape which worked better, but it's more expensive
Taping knife set - you'll find your own preferences while taping and mudding, so I used a mix of 2", 3", 6" and 8" from Toolstation, Or you can try these taping knives from Amazon
Plasterer's hawk - for placing your skim on or use a rectangular container long enough for your filling knife
Mixing paddle for power drill + 2 paint buckets - 1 to mix the filler, the other with water for cleaning. I don't recommend mixing with a filling knife as you can scrape the bucket, adding plastic debris to your mix
Mesh tape - this is perforated plasterboard tape for reinforcing the joints and preventing cracks around tapered joins
Paper tape - this is white perforated cross-fibre paper tape for reinforcing butt joints
Prep hand sander and 120 grit sandpaper - for gentle hand sanding off excess mud on uneven seams until flat and smooth surface
Protective eyewear - I recommend investing in a good pair of anti-fog goggles to encourage you to keep wearing them (from experience) as a flick of filler can easily go in your eyes!
Stanley knife - this is for cutting mesh tape when you reach a corner (where the ceiling meets the wall)
📋 Step by Step Instructions
1. First, apply a PVA solution onto the tapered joins and upper porous walls with a brush where you'll later add mud for corner tape.
Allow to dry overnight.
2. Once dry, apply the mesh tape (AKA Scrim or fibatape) over the joint where the tapered plasterboards meet.
This is self-adhesive and forms a web for the filler to adhere to.
3. Next, mix your setting compound, or use ready mix.
Then fill the tapered joints well, then smooth while removing the excess with a taping knife that is a minimum of 6".
Be conscious about timing as you don't want the filler to set before smoothing.
I found filling and smoothing in small sections works best, then leave to dry.
4. Use the same filler and fill all over all of the drywall screws or any screw holes and leave to dry.
If you see any protruding, you will need to screw them further in, otherwise, they will still show, even after the final coat of paint.
5. For the butt joints, many recommend shaving the edges at a 45-degree angle with a Stanley knife, then prefill with filler and leave to dry before sang smooth.
Then for this mix, add a splash of water for a wetter mix so it soaks into the paper and fill with at least 50mm either side of the join and smooth out.
Then place a length of paper tape on top with the crease side facing the sky and smooth out with a taping knife to ensure bedded and there are no air bubbles.
Trim the tape down by trapping it with your knife and pulling the tape away from it.
Then apply a finish coat with a wide 8" knife, allowing the skim to allow it to feather and blend in with the boards.
6. For internal corners, cut down some paper slightly longer than the length of the wall and fold it into a crease.
Apply thin coats of filler on the wall and ceiling with a 3" knife in small sections.
Then press the corner tape, one section at a time and smooth walls in the corner with your knife.
Repeat until you get to the end.
Then apply the next coat of filler over the top, spreading with a tape knife that's 6" minimum.
For external corners, watch how I do it here.
7. Once everything is dry, gently sand off any excess hardened filler using 120 grit sandpaper.
Be very careful over any paper tape as it can remove the mud and ruffle the paper.
8. To decorate, apply a mist coat of emulsion matt paint that is a 50:50 mix of paint and water. This skim will absorb the paint more easily, rather than sit on top.
Leave this to dry and apply one more mist coat in case you missed any areas.
If any blemishes are visible, simply add a small amount of filler onto any voids or pot marks, leave to dry and sand off.
Then repeat with your mist coat and final coats of paint.
Tip: watch here if you have bubbles in your paper tape and make a slight slice in the tape, then gently pull back and add more filler before smoothing out and over again and allow to dry.
⚖️ Project Variations
Here are some alternative methods:
- Some professionals mix their compound with warm water for hot mud, so it can dry quicker
- Soak the joint tape in water first so to allow it to bed better into the mud
- Hire a professional if you don't think you have the time, or don't like the idea of a mess
🦺 Safety Tips
- Wear protective clothing such as goggles and gloves to protect yourself from the filler
- Keep your steps dry as slips can occur when working at a height
- Don't overreach on your ladder in case you fall
- Ensure you don't use wet plaster near electrical points
- Wear a dust mask while sanding and keep the room ventilated, with doors and windows open
⚡ Care and Maintenance
Check for cracks over time. You may experience deflection from too much weight in the loft and may need to add more screws and fill again
Dust your ceiling regularly to prevent dulling and damage.
Always look out water staining or drips which is a sign of a leaking pipes, seals or roofing. Turn the electrics off and repair immediately to prevent the ceiling from collapsing
Look for signs of sagging, discolouration, or cracks.
💡Pro Tips
- If you have spare joint filler left over, you can store it in the fridge in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks
- For quick drying compound, mix with warm water as opposed to cold
- Soak the paper a little in water first for easier bedding in the skim
- Apply at least three layers of jointing compound, letting each layer dry and sanding it before applying the next
- Use a wide jointing knife or scraper to spread the compound evenly and feather the edges
- Use a fine-grit sandpaper to smooth the surface and remove any excess compound
- And good luck!
❓ FAQ
Scrim tape is designed specifically to create stronger joints when plasterboard is skimmed, otherwise, you may get cracks later.
For the tapered join, mix as per your jointing compound's instructions. But with paper tape, add a little water to thin it out so the compound can seep into the paper and can glue it to the wall.
I recommend avoiding overlapping tape as it may be noticeable and requires more filler around to compensate.
➕ More Drywall Projects
Looking for more decorating projects? Why not take a look at these?
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How to Guide: Jointing & Taping Plasterboard Walls/Ceilings
Have you got a tapered drywall installation and want to learn DIY taping and jointing for the first time? Then here's my step-by-step guide, including fixing bubbles in drywall tape. You can also follow my tape and jointing YouTube video here.
Materials
- Jointing compound - I mixed up Easifill60, and also tried Toupret ready mix joint and skim, thinned out with water for the paper tape which worked better, but it's more expensive
- Mesh tape - this is perforated plasterboard tape for reinforcing the joints and preventing cracks around tapered joins
- Paper tape - this is white perforated cross-fibre paper tape for reinforcing butt joints
Tools
- Taping knife set - you'll find your own preferences while taping and mudding, so I used a mix of 2", 3", 6" and 8" from Toolstation, Or you can try these taping knives from Amazon
- Plasterer's hawk - for placing your skim on or use a rectangular container long enough for your filling knife
- Mixing paddle for power drill + 2 paint buckets - 1 to mix the filler, the other with water for cleaning. I don't recommend mixing with a filling knife as you can scrape the bucket, adding plastic debris to your mix
- Prep hand sander and 120 grit sandpaper - for gentle hand sanding off excess mud on uneven seams until flat and smooth surface
- Stanley knife - this is for cutting mesh tape when you reach a corner (where the ceiling meets the wall)
Instructions
- First, apply a PVA solution onto the tapered joins and upper porous walls with a brush where you'll later add mud for corner tape. Allow to dry overnight.
- Once dry, apply the mesh tape (AKA Scrim or fibatape) over the joint where the tapered plasterboards meet. This is self-adhesive and forms a web for the filler to adhere to.
- Next, mix your setting compound, or use ready mix. Then fill the tapered joints well, then smooth while removing the excess with a taping knife that is a minimum of 6". Be conscious about timing as you don't want the filler to set before smoothing. I found filling and smoothing in small sections works best, then leave to dry.
- Use the same filler and fill all over all of the drywall screws or any screw holes and leave to dry. If you see any protruding, you will need to screw them further in, otherwise, they will still show, even after the final coat of paint.
- For the butt joints, many recommend shaving the edges at a 45-degree angle with a Stanley knife, then prefill with filler and leave to dry before sang smooth. Then for this mix, add a splash of water for a wetter mix so it soaks into the paper and fill with at least 50mm either side of the join and smooth out. Then place a length of paper tape on top with the crease side facing the sky and smooth out with a taping knife to ensure bedded and there are no air bubbles. Trim the tape down by trapping it with your knife and pulling the tape away from it. Then apply a finish coat with a wide 8" knife, allowing the skim to allow it to feather and blend in with the boards.
- For internal corners, cut down some paper slightly longer than the length of the wall and fold it into a crease. Apply thin coats of filler on the wall and ceiling with a 3" knife in small sections. Then press the corner tape, one section at a time and smooth walls in the corner with your knife. Repeat until you get to the end. Then apply the next coat of filler over the top, spreading with a tape knife that's 6" minimum. For external corners, watch how I do it here.
- Once everything is dry, gently sand off any excess hardened filler using 120 grit sandpaper. Be very careful over any paper tape as it can remove the mud and ruffle the paper.
- To decorate, apply a mist coat of emultion matt paint that os a 50:50 mix of paint and water. This skim will absorb the paint more easily, rather than sit on top. Leave this to dry and apply one more mist coat in case you missed any areas. If any blemishes are visible, simply add a small amount of filler onto any voids or pot marks, leave to dry and sand off. Then repeat with your mist coat and final coats of paint.
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