Beginner's Guide to Installing a Ceiling Plasterboard

Do you need to replace your old ceiling with plasterboard, but don't want to pay labour costs? Then my plasterboard ceiling installation step-by-step guide is sure to help!

You can also follow my new ceiling plasterboard YouTube video for a spare pair of hands.

We recently bought our new house at auction, which suffered the terrible fate of burst pipes, which flooded the property and wrecked the old plaster gyprock ceilings.

Therefore, we also had no insulation in 2 of our rooms and any heat we generated escaped through the roof. This resulted in our first energy bill being a shocker!

So in this post, I will show you how I installed a drywall ceiling as a matter of urgency now that it's Winter. I also share the tips and tricks I learned to reduce any stress, especially if you're doing it alone.

Jump to:

• Tapered Edge Vs Square Edge
• Which Size Plasterboard Should I Use?
• ✔️ Why You'll Love This Project
• ⚒️Tools and Material Notes
• 📋 Step by Step Instructions
• ⚖️Variations
• 🦺 Safety Tips
• 💡Pro Tips
• ❓ FAQ
• ➕ More Drywall Projects
• 💬 Comments

Tapered Edge Vs Square Edge

Before we get into things, you'll need to decide whether you want to hire a plasterer to skim your sheets of plasterboard once installed or whether you'll be dry lining them yourself.

If you will be hiring a plaster to skim it all, then you can choose one with a square end of the plasterboard. If you want to tape and joint (dry line), then opt for tapered edges.

Tapered board edges are where the long edges of the plasterboard are thinner and when joined with another, they create a dip to allow you to build up jointing compound until smooth.

Which Size Plasterboard Should I Use?

I'm going to give you a word of warning: many YouTube videos make lifting sheetrock look easy. So if you're installing it alone, I recommend buying smaller panels where possible.

Luckily, they come in 9.5mm or 12.5 mm boards in the various sizes below:

• 2400 x 1200mm (8ft x 4ft) = 9.5mm: 20kg / 12.5mm: 24kg
• 1800mm x 900mm (6ft x 3ft) = 9.5mm: 11kg / 12.5mm: 13kg
• 1220 x 600mm (4ft x 2ft) = 12.5mm: 6kg

I recommend choosing a weight you're comfortable with (try lifting them in a DIY store before buying). Note: despite the bigger the panel, the extra weight, the fewer joins you'll have to fill!

And with some careful planning, I recommend measuring your joist centres to see if they are designed around a specific length of any of the above. And if so, it will make life so much easier for you!

✔️ Why You'll Love This Project

Here are just a handful of reasons why we think you'll find doing this project yourself rewarding:

• Great for house or garage ceiling
• It uses simple tools found in most DIY stores
• You can save money by not hiring a professional
• It's mentally and financially rewarding once finished
• The same method applies to a stud wall and partition wall
• You'll improve the thermal insulation, fire resistance, and sound absorption of your ceiling which has lower thermal conductivity
• It will teach you new skills and determination for future DIY projects

⚒️Tools and Material Notes

You can refer to my shorter printable guide in the how-to card at the bottom of this post. However, I recommend reading the entire post for more detailed tips, tricks, and my step-by-step tutorial with images.

Please note that as an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases made through affiliate links.

Here are my essential tools for plasterboarding a ceiling:

Plasterboard - see my tapered vs square edge section and Which Size section for help. You also may prefer insulated, moisture-resistant, etc

Plasterboard lifter - You can buy, or hire at a daily rate. They come in 2 different heights for high ceilings and help position panels and minimise heavy lifting. Or, use smaller boards to fit with a dead man's lift, or with a group of people

Panel lift - these are great for moving plasterboard on your own, but I struggled using it with the biggest 25kg sheets while I tried to raise it above my waist onto the lifter

Laser measure - I much prefer this for accuracy and quickness as opposed to asking someone to hold a regular tape measure (which means both stood on a ladder too)

3.5 x 38 mm plasterboard screws - these are black phosphate Phillips screws to prevent rust

Stanley knife - this is to score the plasterboard to the desired size while running along a spirit level as a straight edge. I first mark them with a pencil for reference, then score

Padsaw (AKA jab saw) - this may not be vital, but it's great for hand sawing awkward angles, corners or making holes for light sockets, plugs, and other obstructions

Impact driver - this is my preferred option to make sure the screw head dips easily, but you need to go easy on the trigger to prevent them from sinking too much. Or use a combi drill for more control.

Portable work bench platform - this gives me a platform to walk one while screwing, so I don't have to move as much as I do with step ladders

Plasterboard rasp (AKA surform) - this helps tidy up cut edges to neaten up for a more snug fit up to your next board

📋 Step by Step Instructions

⚖️Variations

When installing plasterboard, you may want to use the following:

Airtight - one recommendation from my viewers is to use attach an airtight membrane to the joists with foil insulation tape to prevent heat from escaping into the attic. This is not suitable for downstairs rooms.

Damp proofing - use foil-backed plasterboard which has foil on one side of the board to act as a vapour barrier

Sound proofing - try to reduce noise by using acoustic plasterboard instead of standard plasterboard. Acoustic panels have a higher-density special core to reduce the transmission of sound waves

Moisture resistant - use moisture-resistant panels to slow down water damage when exposed and the risk of mould. These are a great option for kitchens and bathrooms

Fire resistant - fire resistant boards for a minimum of 30 minutes. However, you can increase this by buying fire-rated boards for flats, terraced houses, integrated garages, timber frames, etc. These slow a fire from spreading, to allow people more time to evacuate

Insulated plasterboard - if your room allows, you can use plasterboard with insulation on the back to reduce heat loss and lowers energy bills. Alternatively, you can place polystyrene between the joists while in the loft, but with a 25mm gap between the bottom of the rafters for ventilation

🦺 Safety Tips

Here are some of the important precautions you should take when plasterboarding a ceiling:

• Don't overreach while on a ladder to prevent falling
  
• Wear PPE such as goggles and a mask to protect your eyes and lungs from dust and debris. And safety shoes.
  
• If threading light cables, turn the electric off before installing
  
• Mark where to avoid cables while screwing, and use cable clips to move trailing cables away if needed
  
• To avoid injuries, it's a good idea to ask a friend to help lift the panels with you onto the plasterboard lift and avoid lifting anything too heavy. It's bad enough working at ceiling height!
  
• Use a dust mask when you are sawing timber or cutting your plasterboard with a multi-tool or mechanical saw

💡Pro Tips

• Don't install the plasterboard in a railroad fashion on the joists as this can cause more cracks and will be trickier if your joists are out of line
  
• The best way to install your plasterboard is perpendicular to the joists, as this will reduce the number of joints and increase the strength of the ceiling
  
• Use a plasterboard lifter to save your back, shoulders and arms
  
• For upstairs rooms, measure the doors and hallways first to check what size plasterboard you can take up
  
• Tidy your cut edges nife will produce a cleaner cut than a saw, and a plasterboard rasp will smooth out any rough edges
  
• When measuring and calculating your room for panels, add another 2 boards for wastage and accidents
  
• To avoid cracks in the ceiling, use tapered edge plasterboard instead of square edge plasterboard as they have an indentation to add more joint compound for a smoother finish
  
• To apply board on board, you will need to use a stud finder
  
• Although not common in the UK, unlike Australia, you can use a plasterboard adhesive for extra support
  
• Ensure you store new boards on a surface free from debris to prevent damage
  
• If replacing a small section, make sure you buy the same size plasterboard to allow for a build-up of layers of plasterboard to match

❓ FAQ

➕ More Drywall Projects

Looking for more help with fitting plasterboard? Here are some previous projects you might need:

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