DIY Gravel Pathway with Path Edgings & Stepping Stones

Here's a full step-by-step on how I laid my DIY gravel pathway, self-contained with a brick paver path edging on a mortar bed and round stepping stones. I use no power tools and 99% girl power.

You can also follow along with my extensive YouTube video guide here.

Since building my large DIY garden room from scratch with my Dad nearly 2 years ago, I felt it was time to lay a shed DIY path. *This ended up being my workshop shed with lean-to-shed.

It's not like we'd been traipsing in the mud to get to them. Not long after the build, my husband had dug up the topsoil, laid weed control, 5-6 inches of sharp sand, and block pavers.

But the pavers were temporary, not bedded properly and I'd often trip over them. So, that was about to change.

Jump to:

• Why I Opted for a DIY Gravel Walkway with Stepping Stones
• Tools I Used to Lay Walkways Like This
• How I Laid My Own Path
• Digging Trenches for Path Edging
• How Deep Should I Dig for a Path Edging?
• My Digging Tips
• Tamper As You Go
• Working on the 2nd Trench
• Why I Chose MOT Type 1 Subbase for My Path Edging's Footings
• Tampering Subbase
• Setting up a String Line For Good
• Doing a Path Edging Dry Lay
• What Mortar Mix Should I Use?
• Laying My Path Edgings
• Haunching My Path Edging
• Adding Gravel to Haunching
• Repeating my 2nd Path Edging
• Laying the Final Bricks
• Laying Weed Control
• Planning Patio Slabs Positions
• What's the Best Patio Mortar Mix?
• Filling in the Remaining Gravel
• Pointing the Block Paving Path Edging Using a Dry Grouting Method
• How Much Does it Cost to Build a Garden Path?
• How I Laid a DIY Gravel Path
• 💬 Comments

Why I Opted for a DIY Gravel Walkway with Stepping Stones

To understand why I chose this laying gravel chippings method compared to others, then first, I highly recommend watching my Landscape Gardening Projects for Beginners playlist.

The YouTube playlist above shows all the projects I've ever experienced in chronological order. You'll see that so far I've laid a patio on sand (and mortar) with sleeper edging, a large gravel driveway, and a raised step and ground-level patio step.

With these successes in mind, I generally like to try and improve 1% at a time on each project and not set myself up for failure. So, for one of my next DIY garden path ideas, it felt natural to lay a block paver path edging to contain gravel.

Note, although wooden railway sleepers are great for easy garden paths, bear in mind that they get very slippy when wet.

Tools I Used to Lay Walkways Like This

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases made through links.

• Tape measure
• Framing square
• Ear defenders
• Block pavers - Bradstone Woburn Rumbled Block Paving* *Recycled from other areas if the garden
• 1m spirit level
• Gloves
• Knee pads *gifted
• Wheel barrow
• 8" tamper
• Digging Spade
• MOT type 1 sub base aggregate
• Post hole trench shovel/spade
• Builder's bags
• String line
• String level
• Builder's square
• Rubber mallet
• Edging tool
• Cement mixing tray *a cement mixer is SO much quicker!!
• Goggles/safety glasses
• Boat or torpedo level
• Trowels
• Grit sand 1 tonne (roughly)
• 20mm York gold flint gravel
• Stepping stone paving slabs
• Weed control
• Band saw
• Soft silver sand
• Mastercrete Blue Circle Cement
• Rigger boots

How I Laid My Own Path

Planning my Path Edging

First, I needed to work out how wide I wanted my shed path to be. To make life easier, I opted for the same length as my 1m spirit level. *This will include the path edge.

And after removing all of the temporarily placed block pavers, I put some back as a dry-lay for a path edge visual.

It also helped for planning to avoid any obstacles, like cherry laurel trees at the opposite end of the garden.

Digging Trenches for Path Edging

Before I talk about the depth I dug, I wanted my first trench 50mm away from my shed, which is why I didn't set up a string line right away. This would give me enough space for haunching behind them. *Although you may need to if the path won't be square to the house and looks wrong.

Also, I wanted the trench wider than the block paving I was using, so it wouldn't be too tight as I laid them, but I could also fit my 8" tamper in it to compact sub base.

With that in mind, I used my tamper as a digging guide for all trenches. *You can buy smaller hand tampers if your blocks are much smaller.

If You Want to Dig the Whole Path Area

As I'm hand tampering here, I won't be using a plate compactor (AKA whacker).

But if want to dig up the whole space, then you might want to hire one, depending on the size of your DIY walkway. That's not to say it isn't doable.

How Deep Should I Dig for a Path Edging?

After quite a lot of research, I found that I needed to dig approx when digging 5.5-6.5" deep. And that's to allow:

• X paver thickness +
• 1" mortar bed +
• 2-3" deep subbase MOT Type 1 aggregate (AKA crush run)

I already had existing block paving I needed to match, so used that as my finish height, which was also the lowest part of my garden.

My garden also has a slope, so to match the rest of the lawn as I went, I marked my height on an offcut to use as a gauge and would check my trench's depth as I went.

I also opted for the higher end of 6.5", so when I needed to level it off to my string line, I could sacrifice a pinch of subbase while having enough for strength and not my mortar bed.

My Digging Tips

Firstly, it really helps to understand what is underneath the soil in case you come across pipes of any kind, or soakaways that may stop you in your tracks.

Some countries insist you check yard plans before excavating. I tend to dig slowly and carefully so I have control. If I feel resistance, then I'll inspect closer.

Also, I recommend having a plan as to WHERE you're going to dispose of your soil. A wheelbarrow is great for tipping it into flower beds or to a skip. You may want a few builder's bags as you might be surprised how much you unearth.

Tamper As You Go

After digging up your topsoil to the right depth, I would dampen the whole trench with a garden hose on sprinkler setting then compact it all down with my 8" tamper.

If the tamper was a tight squeeze, I'd then shave a bit more off the sides of the trench and repeat.

Note, it also helps to wear ear defenders or headphones as it's very noisy, repetitive work.

Working on the 2nd Trench

For my next trench, which was farthest away from the shed, I set up a string line as a guide for where to dig.

Note, I recommend using a builder's square against any existing paving or building in case it looks wrong. I found my block paving wasn't square to my shed, which when corrected to the existing paving, looked wrong.

Therefore, I malleted spikes and set a string line to match the shed for aesthetics. Then I could dig and tamper my trench as before.

Tips

Note, I didn't need to set the height of the string line yet as my digging would interfere with it. Alternatively, you could spray paint your grass or soil, then remove your string line so you can dig without it getting in the way.

*I'll be putting the string line back closer to being ready to lay my path edging.

Why I Chose MOT Type 1 Subbase for My Path Edging's Footings

The first thing I'd like to point out is something my father-in-law said to me who used to be a site foreman in groundworks, like building roads, etc:

• If your path edging will get lots of traffic - say a public path or near a road will need concrete footings as featured in my gravel driveway at this point in the video.

With cement, you'll have a lot less time to react, but it will be stronger.

As this is a back garden path that will get occasional use each week, I thought MOT type 1 sub-base aggregate was enough. Providing I haunched it well to retain gravel.

Tampering Subbase

After filling my trenches with subbase, I spread it out as evenly as possible with my spade and would dampen and tamper.

Note, I wanted this to be as easy as possible, so didn't worry about the two trenches joining at the back until my dry lay stage.

Tips on Buying Subbase or Any Aggregate on a Budget

During my homemade walkway project, I struggled to find a local quarry that sold to the general public as opposed to just tradespeople. So I ended up going to my local DIY store and bought subbase in 25kg bags.

In short, it took 3-4 trips in my car to find I needed much more than I expected. I ended up spending 4 x more than I would've done if I had a tonne bag delivered.

After frustration when ready to buy gravel, I asked a local Facebook group for aggregate business recommendations that had a good display and sold to home DIYers. Within minutes I found someone a short drive away. If I'd done this immediately, I would have saved approx £100.

Prepping for Tonne Bag Deliveries

One of the other reasons I chose 25kg bags early on is that aggregate deliveries can be a pain in the bum. From past experiences, I recommend:

• Checking with your supplier whether they can drop off easily without obstacles (ie, your gate opening might be too small and heavy vehicles can sink block paving
• Also, ask if they're delivering in bags or loose?

If loose, make sure you have plenty of sheets for it to be dumped on, otherwise you'll lose lots in your grass!

Setting up a String Line For Good

Once I was content with my subbase, I set up my string line to match the height of my block paving. *I attached the string to a nail and wedged it between one of the pavers.

Then took it to the other end of the garden, and malleted in a wood stake to where I wanted it using a framing square held against the shed. And after wrapping the string around the stake nice and tight, adjusted the height unit it was level with the slight sloping paving using a string level.

I could NOT have worked without this level and also placed it in the middle of my string to check for any bowing. Otherwise, I'd need to tighten again or use a centre stake.

Doing a Path Edging Dry Lay

This may be tedious, putting blocks in place, only to remove them again. But a dry lay is extremely valuable to check for any issues and help you feel prepared.

For example, I could check for any high spots in my subbase or areas I could do with topping up - all to ensure I have a 1" bed for my paver's mortar bed.

It also paid off in that I realised both rows finished in the same spot. And if it didn't, my selection of pavers meant I could swap until it was. And that 3 pavers slotted between the rows perfectly. NO NEED TO CUT ANY WITH A SAW AND DIAMOND BLADE*. So I instantly dug another trench and filled it in.

*You might find my cutting a quartz worktop tutorial useful here if you need to cut any bricks.

What Mortar Mix Should I Use?

Since sharing a few patio projects, I've received lots of varying comments regarding the mortar mix they would and how to mix it. For my path edging, I used a 5 to 1 cement to sharp sand mix.

I recommend reading comments on my patio project here. Some vary from 3 to 1 to 1 to 10!! I would have used 4 to 1, but it's been a few years since I laid slabs and wanted to slow things down to give me "tinkering time". Also, when mixing in a bit of water at a time, I opted for a stiffish mixture to hold the weight.

Also, each mix took me about 10 minutes to make. Initially, I just did one batch to test things, then immediately started doubling my mixture once I felt ok with how things were going.

Tips I've Learned Along the Way

• Using a semi dry mix (no water added at all) is harder to get your pavers level
• When mixing - quantities are volume not weight... ok, so shovel loads aren't has good as paint cans or buckets with gauges
• Avoid finer sands, like silver sand it's won't be as strong
• Grit sand is sharper and sets harder
• Work on a day where it's 3°C and rising
• You may need frost proof additive for colder weather
• Cooler days will give you more working time - hot days the opposite
• Frost can crumble your mortar - if you're worried, but blankets over it overnight

What Can I Use to Mix Mortar?

If you don't have a cement mixer, (and, in my case, our van's battery was flat, and couldn't pick my Dad's up), you can totally mix by hand. I never used ANY power tools to mix mine and it took me two days to lay the path edging and 14 round stepping stones.

It's a complete body workout, and I wouldn't have enjoyed it half as much if my ear defenders didn't play music. And on this occasion, I used a £20-ish mixing tray which was really fun to use.

Alternatively, you could use a wheelbarrow as I've done in the past, but it's a smaller surface area to mix. And, my spade would keep catching on the bolts inside - very annoying! Or, you might want to try a plasterer's bucket and a mixer drill stirrer.

Laying My Path Edgings

In all honesty, this was my favourite part. Bedding block pavers on a mortar bed.

I added a 2" bed, so my pavers would be about 1" above my string line. And while malleting down and checking with a spirit level to match the existing paving, most would spill out to be used for haunching within an hour time.

I also checked with a boat level to ensure it was completely flat. Then onto the next block. But avoid the brick touching the string line, which can knock it out of line.

Haunching My Path Edging

I could have used a stronger mix, like a 3 to 1 mix for haunching my pavers.

But I decided to angle the existing mortar that came out about 1 hour after laying my first block.

I do this by angling my trowel and smoothing out the mortar and repeating for the back as shown below.

Adding Gravel to Haunching

Also, I wanted to save myself any hassle when laying the final section at the back. So I decided to stop ¾ of the way.

Then in sections, I immediately pressed the York gold flint chippings I'd bought by the tonne, into the mortar so it would permanently set like that for strength and it'll never look shy of gravel.

Now... let's dismantle the 2nd dry lay set them in mortar too!

Repeating my 2nd Path Edging

For the 2nd row, I repeated exactly the same method as above.

BUT, this time I could use my first path edging as a reference and match it.

However, due to the grass and soil protruding in places with my 1m spirit level, I had to use a cut-down offcut of structural timber (providing it's straight!) to raise my spirit level and keep checking for level.

Laying the Final Bricks

As I'm not a pro brickie, I decided to lay the back section all at the same time in case I needed to adjust the heights while making my path edging meet.

Although I'd done a dry day prior, it still may have been tight and possibly needed me to cut a brick. If they were going to be a fraction out, then I was happy to shimmy them slightly for an easy life.*

*That is, providing it still looked right. Thankfully, a selection of different pavers meant I didn't need to do any of this. So while I used a spirit level, I used structural timber as a straight edge to tidy them up! Then back to haunching and pressing in gravel.

Laying Weed Control

Now, as mentioned at the beginning, I wasn't sure whether there was weed control in the middle as it had been so long since my husband dug and remove the topsoil.

So, as an extra measure, (and my path wasn't massive), I thought it couldn't hurt digging up sharp sand in the middle and temporarily storing it in a wheelbarrow. Then laying weed control before putting it back.

This also meant more wetting and tampering. Note, I was careful about the haunching, which had partially hardened from the day before.

Planning Patio Slabs Positions

When you're looking for paving slabs, there are SO many on the market in a variety of different materials, such as:

• Recycled rubber stepping stones
• Concretre replicate sleeper stepping stones
• DIY stepping stone kits you can buy
• Even cat shaped stepping stones!!

Life would have been easier if I had fewer larger ones to lay. However, I bought 14 small round stepping stones, 300mm wide, 38mm thick because they were cheap, local, and wouldn't get in the way of the haunching.

But the key thing I did here was some planning to position them equally. Being round paving slabs with a staggered approach, I created a jig explained here with some maths to help you speed the job up.

What's the Best Patio Mortar Mix?

As my pavers would get the most weight, this time I used a stronger 4:1 sharp sand to cement mix.

I placed my jig at the start of my path and added a good dollop of mortar to bed my slab, making sure it was level with my edging before double-checking with my jig again.

Then haunched and pressed more gravel on top. For the next slab, I flipped over the jig, sat it against the previous slab, and repeated. This saved me so much time, not having to set up string lines or constantly checking with a tape measure.

*The jig can be cut wider for a straight row of paving slabs too.

Filling in the Remaining Gravel

Once I'd laid all of my stepping stones in the mortar and left them overnight to go off, I returned the next day to top the gravel up. Note, I didn't walk on them as it can take around 3 days to fully harden.

Which is the Best Gravel for Pathways?

When I asked this question to my Dad, he recommend flint or granite chippings as opposed to limestone which isn't as hardwearing. I ended up choosing a 20mm York gold flint, which is fairly self-compacting.

Although if my local supplier had 10-14mm, I would have opted for that, although it was considerably more expensive in my nearest well-known DIY chain.

The fact that most of my path is a mortar bed with gravel set in means there's less movement, but I still have some drainage.

Pointing the Block Paving Path Edging Using a Dry Grouting Method

The final step I needed to do was point the pavers to give them strength. I created a semi-dry mix here (no water added), which was 1:1 soft silver sand and cement, which will dry a light colour. AKA, dry grouting.

Then crammed it in the (approx 3mm gaps) using a trowel right to the top, then carefully swept it in with a soft sweeping brush. And instead of setting with a sprinkler, I left it for days for any wind to "tidy it up" and natural moisture to set it. However, I also knew about some upcoming rain around 5 days later.

Why I Chose Dry Grouting

The main reason I chose a dry 1:1 mix of soft sand and cement (as opposed to wet grouting, or pointing/jointing), is because my paver's gaps were less than ½" (13mm). Also, it was a dry day, the pavers weren't wet, meaning the blocks wouldn't get stained by the cement.

For wider gaps, then you can opt for a 3:1 mix of sharp sand and cement. BUT, it's worth reading Paving Expert's opinion on how pointing with a dry mix often fails.

Many use premixed polymeric sand or setting sand, but making it yourself is obviously much cheaper easier to mix dry than wet in my opinion.

How Much Does it Cost to Build a Garden Path?

I'll just be covering approx costs of most materials here as I already had many tools from other landscape gardening projects:

• FREE Recycled pavers - *B&Q sell this amount for £70
• FREE - sharp sand - 1 tonne (had leftover)
• £111 - sub base - please look for a local quarry instead!
• £35 gravel (approx ½ tonne used)
• £70 round stepping stones
• £20 3.5 bags of cement
• £9 weed control
• £20 Cement mixing tray
• £6 String level
• FREE soft silver sand (leftover)

This gave me an approx total of £271*.

It really is going to depend on whereabouts you live in the UK. I can imagine suppliers in and around London will cost significantly more.

Where I Could Have Saved Money

Note, the biggest, wasteful spend here was the sub-base in 25kg bags as I hadn't found a local supplier (yet) charging £30 including delivery.

HOWEVER, assuming you aren't recycling block pavers for a path edging then let's say this balances it out, and you should expect to pay around £300 in materials anyway.

Also, having 1 tonne of sharp sand delivered from a local supplier probably won't cost that much either. But hopefully, this helps give you an idea of what you might spend with 2022 price increases in mind.

How I Laid a DIY Gravel Path